July 9: We park Full Moon behind Typhoon Island (one of the outer islands of the Spider Group) and launch the boats for a reconnoitre. I have been happier for the last few hours than on any of our passages so far; the reason is that I can feel the Pacific swell at last. We're "on the outside", on the open water, and this reunion with the real ocean is unexpectedly emotional for me: I feel as if I've come home. The swell is low but steady, surging and muttering on the rocks. This water feels alive to me in a way that the Salish Sea (Strait of Georgia) never has.
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